Happy Huayhuash hikers from right to left… Alex, Harriet, Neil and myself

Taking in some sun on Paso Jurau (5,053 m, 16 578 ft) backed by one of the Huayhuash’s most dramatic vistas: Nevado Sarpo (6.127 m, 20,102 ft), Nevado Siula Grande (6.344 m, 20,814 ft) and Nevado Yerupaja (6.617 m, 21,709 ft)

A couple of hours bus journey from the relaxing little town of Chiquián and we reach Llamac in time to snatch a lift most of the way up the mine road with some workers. That leaves only a relaxing few miles warm up to camp

Next morning it’s straight out the traps with a trudge and clamber up to our first pass

Cold and windy, Cacananpunta Pass (4,690 m, 15,387 ft) isn’t the most comfortable place to hang out… unless maybe if you’re a dog

From the pass at Cacananpunta we leave the path to detour via Laguna Mitococha which nestles invitingly at the base of the Jirishanca Norte glacier. Above this tower Nevado Mituraju (5,750 m, 18,865 ft) and Nevado Jirishanca (6,094 m, 19,993 ft)

A much needed lunch stop later we rejoin the main path and start the ascent to Paso de Carhuac pass (4,650 m, 15,256 ft)

Having crested Paso de Carhuac pass we descend through cold hail to camp at Lake Carhuacocha (4.138 m, 13,576 ft). When morning comes and the clouds lift the true majesty of our camp hits hard. From left to right: Siula Grande (6,344 m, 20,814 ft), Yerupaja (6,635 m, 21,768 ft), Yerupaja Chico (6,121 m, 20,082 ft)

There’s nowt better than morning light on snowy peaks! Nevado Yerupaja (6,635 m, 21,768 ft)

Arriving in camp the evening before Alex and I collapse into our tents exhausted. Thankfully Harriet ‘Florence Nightingale’ Pike was on hand to cook us up some noodles and we wake up the next day fully rejuvenated

On our way out of camp we pass through Israeli city which formed the evening before across the lake from us. Their steeds wait to start work no doubt wondering how many hapless hikers they’ll be carrying that day

Leaving Lake Carhuacocha behind, we’re soon back into rhythm…

… and forging our way up the Quebrada Gangrajanca valley

The secret to good hiking is to look strong, if you look strong you’ll be strong. Make up your own mind as to whether Alex looks strong

Massive and beautiful faces entice us up the valley…

… past increasingly picturesque lakes…

… until we start the steep climb up and out under the watchful eye of Siula Grande (6,344 m, 20,814 ft)

Sarapo (6.127 m, 20,102 ft) and the Sarapo glacier are a constant source of fascination on the plodding climb…

… as are the 3 Lakes; Laguna Quesillococha, Laguna Siula and Laguna Gangrajana,

After a quick lunch stop we resume our climb up to Siula Pass. Siula Grande (6,344 m, 20,814 ft) looks on

Siula Grande (6,344 m, 20,814 ft) and Siula Chico 6,265 m. 20,554 ft)

One of the things that continually draws me back to the mountains is the thrill of quickly changing views. The whole world changes with the crest of a pass and with it I experience an enormous surge of euphoria. It’s an addiction that Siula Pass (4800 m, 15,748 ft) feeds in revealing a mass of new colors and possibilities

A wet and spongy descent delivers us into Huayhuash camp…

… where we wake up to a glorious morning

Trapecio (5.653 m, 18,547 ft) dominates as we hike the main route up valley for a while before…

…turning off onto a lesser trodden path for the climb towards Trapecio Punta (5,010 m, 16,400 ft)

Up and up we go…

… until Trapecio (5.653 m, 18,547 ft) seems more imposing than big…

… and the pass appears

At these kind of altitudes I enjoy a rest. The Pikes on the other hand go potty, running around with camera’s and rocks in a frenzy of excitement. Here Harriet leaves her mark with a heavy-duty cairn, probably destined to sit above Trapecio Punta for many years to come

Eventually the flying Pikes reign themselves in and we enjoy a few minutes relaxation on Trapecio Punta (5,010 m, 16,400 ft) before snow comes in and we start to descend

It’s a barren scene on the other side of the pass with Puscanturpa (5,652 m, 18,543 ft) holding guard over a series of bright glacial lakes

Down and down we go…

Until we’re staring Puscanturpa (5,652 m, 18,543 ft) in the face

A clamber around the corner and we’re gazing over the afternoon descent to camp

As Harriet makes light work of climbing up the valley we’re supposed to be climbing down…

… Alex takes a rest and sucks in the scenery

Eventually Elefante camp appears beneath us and we’re just able to get down and pitch before a terrific hail storm hits

Frost bejeweled tents get packed away cold and heavy the next morning as the Pikes insist on an early start. In an awesome show of fitness they then proceed to power prance the steep slopes towards Paso Jurau (5,053 m, 16,578 ft)

Alex and I take things a bit slower stalling to take photos back down the way we’ve climbed

A good half hour after the Pikes we arrive on Paso Jurau (5,053 m, 16,578 ft) and everything becomes clear. Chest heaving, I stand and stare at the most incredible mountain vista I can remember. Nevado’s Sarapo (6,127 m, 20,102 ft) Siula Grande (6,344 m, 20,814 ft) and Yerupaja (6,617 m, 21,709 ft) dominate the vibrant Laguna Juraucocha

Life doesn’t get much better than this!

Paso Jurau (5,053 m, 16,578 ft) has an otherworldly feel. Standing proud in one of the most beautiful locations imaginable, its gravel is mysteriously groomed and there is undoubtedly something spiritual in the air

After a while of marveling the chill starts to bite and it’s time to go down

Descending towards Laguna Juraucocha feels like walking towards the light

Siula Grande is famous as the mountain on which Simon Yates cut climbing partner Joe Simpson free to fall into mountaineering folklore. ‘Touching the Void’ tells of Joe’s dramatic escape from certain death. The two climbers hiked up this valley back in 1985 to set their base camp behind a giant bolder that can be seen here at the top left of the valley

Our story isn’t quite as dramatic as Joe Simpsons. The most frightening thing that happened to us was that Alex once thought he’d lost his hat… he hadn’t

Where’s Harriet? The closer we get to Laguna Juraucocha the brighter it becomes

From Laguna Juraucocha we drop into the head of the valley we’ll descend the next day. It’s only a short walk down to Cutatambo camp where the weather keeps us pinned for the afternoon

Leaving a sodden Cutatambo camp the next morning we start a relaxing descent down the Rio Calinca valley

Save for Condors it’s rare to see much wildlife around these parts so chancing upon three foxes devouring this poor cow was quite something. Sadly her calves have to fend for themselves now

Years on a bike in Latin America is the perfect way to desensitize a vegetarian against animal dismemberment and decay to we continue on our merry way down the Rio Calinca valley

The path leads to Huayllapa (3,490 m, 11,450 ft), the only resupply point on route

Before entering Huayllapa we have to pay our community tax. Tourists have to pay each of the communities whose lands we cross in the Huayhuash. This money contributes to the upkeep of the trails and campsites and ensures our security while in the area. It’s a slightly ad hoc system which is open to abuse but if you know what you’re doing it’s fine. In all it costs about £50 ($80) to do the circuit, which strikes me as a pretty good deal

Striding into Huayllapa we only have one thing on our minds… egg and chips!

Gorging on egg and chips morphs into watching Real Madrid destroy Bayern Munich in the Champions League semi final on a fuzzy TV in a dark tienda (Photo © Alex Krauss)

Reality eventually bites back and we endure a dull climb in sometimes heavy rain to Incahuain Camp

The rain persists through the night at Incahuain Camp. When we rise the next morning everything above us is white, we we’re pretty much riding the snow-line

So it’s into a wintry wonderland we hike…

… temporarily leaving the green behind in the valley below…

… as we stride up to Tapush Punta (4,770 m, 15,650 ft)

The snowy pass is soon a memory as we drop quickly down to Gashpampa…

… and turn to face our second challenge of the day, Punta Yaucha (4,840 m, 15,879 ft)

Before long we’re back into plodding mode…

… until things flatten out slightly just below the pass. A barrage of large hailstones greet our arrival at the top.

After a brief period hunkered down against the hail we decide to shelve more adventurous plans in favor of taking the conventional way down the other side into the waiting valley

The rain follows us all the way down to camp at Laguna Jahuacocha (4,050 m, 13,287 ft)

But then the sun fights back. After a brief rainbow war the rain backs down and…

… we’re treated to a gorgeous evening in camp as light riots off Rondoy (5,970 m, 19,587 ft), Jirishanca (6,126 m, 20,098 ft), Yerupaja Chico (6,121 m, 20,082 ft) and Yerupaja (6,635 m, 21,768 ft)

These are the kind of mountains you could stare at for a lifetime, they evolve as the light changes…

… afternoon turning to evening on Nevados Rondoy and Jirishanca

Once the light shows over it’s time to refuel in preparation for… photo © Alex Krauss

… another episode in the morning. Yerupaja (6,635 m, 21,768 ft) the ranges highest peak

By the time Alex and I leave our tents the Pike are already long gone up an alternative route. So we head off down the valley as a duo…

… leaving the high peaks of the Huayhuash behind…

… we traverse up out of the valley

One last look back…

… before cresting the Pampa Llamac pass (4,300 m, 14,108 ft)

After treating ourselves to a short break…

… we take on the long descent down into the heat…

… of Llamac. Despite arriving slightly late we still manage to get the once daily bus out of town to Chiquian. From there we bus back to Huaraz to be reunited with Neil and Harriet who somehow manage to beat us home