A towering Paine in the pampa
Chris Bonnington, Don Whillans, Dougal Haston, Peter Boardman, Joe Tasker and my hero Doug Scott, just a few of the men that made up the golden generation of British mountaineering. […]
Author Archives: fanwaar
Glacier Perito Moreno… Big, blue and built like a brick shithouse
Like any natural wonder worth its salt, the first glimpse of Glacier Perito Moreno is something that stays with you. A living breathing solid poetry of fresh water, this enormous […]
Seek and you’ll probably find… Spinning dirt to El Calafate
Somewhere along my journey south I picked up the idea that southern Chile and Argentina would hold very few, if any route options. Somehow the ‘knowledge’ that there is only […]
Monte Fitz Roy… A mountain worth waiting for
Jutting a distinguished 3,375 metres into the Patagonian sky, Monte Fitz Roy is one of the regions true icons. Tamed for the first time in 1952 by the French duo […]
Austral acceptance & a nod to ‘normality’
I have quickly learned the power of the Patagonian weather and its ability to gift the cowering traveler time. They said it couldn’t be done, but here it is, a post […]
Operation Austral Avoidance Pt.2: Valle de la Luna
Despite my best efforts I could only avoid the Carretera Austral for so long. Without ceremony the first stage of my avoidance route dumped me onto the highway in La […]
Operation Austral Avoidance Pt.1: Paso Las Pampas
It’s a fairly safe bet that if border officials have no idea what they’re doing then I’m in the right place. In this instance that place was the rustic two-track […]
A mishap and a mission: Riding to Futaleufú. Hitching to Puerto Montt
It seems to me that the patterns of all our lives are governed by cycles. The concept of seven year life cycles is a popular one and happens to be […]
Velo Freedom 